La Pèira Bois de Pauliau | Photo Credit: Georges Souche

Andrew Jefford writing at Decanter.com on a recent vertical tasting of the La Pèira vintages 2005-2010 suggests, “They could be the work of a genius”.

After casting around for possibilities, he finally settles on Genius Loci, the Roman term for the protective spirit of a place.

That place? The Bois de Pauliau (pictured above) where the ground is “deep glacial rubble”, “stony, but not austere”, and “bright but ventilated”; “For the Languedoc, it feels almost Médoc-like”.

As for the wines: “Every time I get a chance to taste these wines, they bring me uncommon pleasure. They are concentrated, perfumed, fleshy, heady, allusive and beguiling. Every bottle is drained to the last drop. As I polish the glasses afterwards, I begin looking forward to the next time.”

The Vertical Tasting

“I tasted La Pèira 2005 to 2010, and Matissat 2007 to 2010. These wines are expensive (£63 per bottle for La Pèira, and £50 for Matissat, from Berry Bros) [$130.00, and $105 in the US], but worth it for anyone whose circumstances allow purchases of that sort. The decent Les Obriers is £15.95 from the same source, but I would rather save up and have one bottle of the indecent La Pèira than four of Les Obriers. Las Flors at £27 is perhaps the canniest buy: La Pèira writ small. (That’s still large.)”

Andrew Jefford’s Notes on the Wines 

La Pèira 2005

“I don’t suppose they’ll ever make another wine like the 2005 La Pèira (for which yields were a barely sane 9 hl/ha): this Gargantua of the Languedoc remains rich, mouth-coating, essence-like, profound, and good for a half-century of ageing.” Andrew Jefford Decanter March 2013 [Wine Searcher link for La Pèira 2005 vintage]  

La Pèira 2006

“If you have any of the 2006 La Pèira — lucky you. In aesthetic terms, I think this is the most beautiful of all so far; more Venus de Milo than Gargantua. Milky, gentle, graceful, poised and Pomerol-like, with perfectly judged black-fruit ripeness and svelte, sumptuous tannins.” Andrew Jefford Decanter March 2013 [Wine Searcher link for the La Pèira 2006 vintage]

La Pèira 2007

“The 2007 is the Grange of the set: a multi-layered, exotic cocktail of everything you might want a wine from hereabouts to be, with cascading texture and depth.” Andrew Jefford Decanter March 2013 [Wine Searcher link for the La Pèira 2007 vintage]

La Pèira 2008

“Just as good [as the 2007], for me, is the 2008: less evident extravagance than in the 2007, but more elemental complexity, as elderberries take over from plums, leather and meat qualifies the fruit, and the finish grows stonier.“ [Wine Searcher link for the La Pèira 2009 vintage]

La Pèira 2009

“I once called La Pèira a liqueur of the garrigue, and the 2009 seems to summarise that deep-drizzled ripeness, perfume and incipient sweetness.” [Wine Searcher link for the La Pèira 2019 vintage]

La Pèira 2010

“The 2010 looks like another monument-in-waiting: peacock-like in terms of its aromatic allusions (plant essences, crushed roots and pounded stones). It’s hard to believe that this powerful and searching wine contains no Mourvèdre.” [Wine Searcher link for the La Pèira 2010 vintage]

Matissat Vertical Tasting Vintages 2007-2010

Matissat 2007

The 2007 pure-Mourvèdre Matissat was the greatest of its own short flight: perhaps the most engagingly baroque example of this variety I have ever tasted (blackberries, mushrooms, blood, white truffle and viscera: gorgeous), and another wine that seems unlikely to die before I do.

Matissat PDF with David Schildknecht / Jancis Robinson / Andrew Jefford reviews (link) [For availability & details: Matissat [at] gmail dot com or roth109 [at] aol dot com]

Matissat 2008

The 2008 is (like the La Pèira of that year) a much tighter, more gathered wine, with shattering concentration, Valrhona acidity, a herbal macerate.

Matissat PDF with David Schildknecht / Jancis Robinson / Andrew Jefford reviews (link) [For availability & details: Matissat [at] gmail dot com or roth109 [at] aol dot com]

Matissat 2009

The 2009 transforms that black chocolate into gratifyingly milky milk chocolate, softens the tannins and adds a spoonful of liquorice essence.

Matissat PDF with David Schildknecht / Jancis Robinson / Andrew Jefford reviews (link) [For availability & details: Matissat [at] gmail dot com or roth109 [at] aol dot com]

Matissat 2010

The 2010 seemed primitive and adolescent at this stage, and still trying to resolve its personality, but full of the thorny, thrumming blackberry this variety surrenders hereabouts.

Matissat PDF with David Schildknecht / Jancis Robinson / Andrew Jefford reviews (link) [For availability & details: Matissat [at] gmail dot com or roth109 [at] aol dot com]

Genius Loci

The English Augustan-style Temple of the Four Winds at Castle Howard

The Latin phrase, Genius Loci (in classical Roman times, an attendant spirit of a person or place) entered the English language as a figure with Alexander Pope’s writing on landscape and architecture. Pope disdained the symmetrical style (Versailles and Fontainebleau for instance), encouraging a more “natural” one where landscape and garden harmonised. Pope suggests, “to follow Nature, even in works of mere luxury and elegance. Instanced in architecture and gardening, where all must be adapted to the genius and use of the place, and the beauties not forced into it, but resulting from it.”. The English Augustan period adopted Roman forms, be it in Architecture (via Andrea Palladio), Literature (Horace and Virgil), or ideas such as Genius Loci, as dramaticaly illustrated by the Temple of the Four Winds (pictured above) at Castle Howard modeled on Palladio’s Villa Capra. The famous lines from Pope’s Epistle IV:

Consult the genius of the place in all;
That tells the waters or to rise, or fall;
Or helps th’ ambitious hill the heav’ns to scale,
Or scoops in circling theatres the vale;
Calls in the country, catches opening glades,
Joins willing woods, and varies shades from shades,
Now breaks, or now directs, th’ intending lines;
Paints as you plant, and, as you work, designs.

Rifling through The Rhone Report’s latest issue. Lots of wonderful notes from the Northern Rhône (Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, St. Joseph, Cornas, Condrieu) from producers such as Jean-Louis Chave, Chapoutier, Guigal, Jaboulet, Georges Vernay, Auguste Clape, amongst many others, to peruse.

In a huge issue that also covers the Southern Rhône, South of France, Spain and much more, the La Pèira 2010 garnered some of the top marks among reviewed French releases.

Text and reviews from the issue follow:

On La Pèira

“The Sine Qua Non of the Languedoc? La Pèira en Damaisèla continues to knock it out of the park and in my view, is the leading estate in all of the Languedoc and Roussillon. While not shrinking violets and certainly ripe, large scaled efforts, the wines have a beautiful purity and elegance about them that keeps you coming back to the glass. I reviewed both of the 2010s here from barrel, and I was thrilled to see them show so well from bottle. In addition, the tiny production Mourvèdre blend, Matissat, is more than a little impressive. Don’t miss a chance to taste it.”

Reviews

2010 La Pèira en Damaisèla Terrasses du Larzac La Pèira Red 99

Similarly styled, yet with even more purity, concentration, and delineation, the 2010 La Pèira is incredible any way you look at it and easily the greatest wine I’ve tasted from the Languedoc to date. Comprised of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache and aged in 60% new French oak, it possesses spectacular aromas and flavors of crème de cassis, chocolate, wild herbs, crème brûlée, and liquid flowers to go with a full-bodied, concentrated, and voluptuously styled palate that is perfectly balanced, has no hard edges, and blockbuster length on the finish. Just about as good as wine gets, with incredible freshness as well as masses of tannin that emerge on the finish, this borderline perfect wine can be consumed now, or anytime over the coming two decades. As with the Las Flors de La Pèira, I followed this bottle for multiple days and it was even more impressive on the second day. (99 pts.)

2010 La Pèira en Damaisèla Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors de La Pèira Red 94

The 2010 Las Flors de La Pèira is a rich, full-throttle effort that almost gushes fruit. A blend of 55% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, and 5% Cinsault that was aged in 25% new French oak, it has an inky purple color that’s followed by a sweet bouquet of crème de cassis, damp earth, pepper, new leather, and chocolate-like nuances. Medium to full-bodied and decadent on the palate, with good acidity, a chewy, unctuous, yet seamless texture, and a great finish, it is a powerhouse that will age effortlessly for 10-12 years, if not longer. I followed this bottle for two days and it was even fresher and more impressive on day two, so don’t be afraid to give it some air if drinking anytime soon. (94 pts.)

2011 La Pèira en Damaisèla Terrasses du Larzac Les Obriers de La Pèira Red 91

From one of the top estates in the Languedoc, the 2011 Les Obriers is an intriguing blend of 65% Cinsault and 35% Carignan that spent 18 to 24 months in barrel prior to being bottled unfined and unfiltered. It displays a finesse oriented profile with notions of red and black fruits, old leather, rose petal, and background herbs carrying through the medium-bodied, seamless, and decidedly polished palate that has integrated, yet racy acidity keeping everything focused nicely. Turning more and more floral and elegant with air, it’s a beautiful wine that will drink nicely for 4-6 years. (91 pts.)

Copyright © 2013 The Rhone Report Jeb Dunnuck:  http://therhonereport.com/

The White | Deusyls de la Pèira

2011 Deusyls de la Pèira White 94 

Quite possibly the top white I was able to taste from the entire region, the 2011 Deusyls de la Pèira, a blend mainly Viognier yet with a splash of Roussanne, would give a top Condrieu a run for its money. Beautiful on the nose, with sweet apricot and peach driven fruit intermixed with flowers, butter crème, toasted nut, and spice, it flows onto the palate with thrilling richness that never seems heavy or cumbersome in the least. Full-bodied, voluptuously textured, and brilliantly focused and long on the finish, it is a superb white that should not be missed. (94 pts.) Copyright © 2013 The Rhone Report Jeb Dunnuck:  http://therhonereport.com/

Matissat (Pure Mourvèdre)

2009 Matissat La Pèira Terrasses du Larzac Red 96

The most complete and tasting like a mix of the ’07 and ’08, with the purity and freshness of the ’08 and some (not all) of the richness found in the ’07, the 2009 Matissat is a pure, classically built Mourvèdre that offers beautiful black raspberry and cassis styled fruit intermixed with wild herbs, tree bark, liquid flower, and blood. Full-bodied, seamless, and incredibly elegant, with perfect balance, clean, integrated acidity, and brilliant precision on the finish, it too can be consumed now or cellared for 15+ years. (96 pts.)

2008 Matissat La Pèira Terrasses du Larzac Red 92

More fresh and lively aromatically, with pretty berry fruit, pepper, basil, wet stone like minerality, and salty sea breeze like aromas and flavors, the 2008 Matissat is a more classic, streamlined version of the 2007. Full-bodied, beautifully fresh, focused, and pure, yet still with superb backend concentration and voluptuousness, it is a gorgeous 2008 that will drink nicely for 12-15 years. (92 pts.)

2007 Matissat La Pèira Terrasses du Larzac Red  94

A blend of 100% Mourvèdre that comes from the same plot as the vines for the top cuvee, La Pèira, the 2007 Matissat sports a deep purple color to go with backwards, almost brooding aromas of smoked black currants, plum sauce, violets, herbed game, hickory, and dark chocolate on the nose. Full-bodied and incredibly mineral-driven on the palate, with a saliva inducing salty, almost blood-like quality, this awesome wine has a seamless texture, fantastic concentration and extract, and a tannic, blockbuster finish that goes on for seemingly over a minute. Not your grandmother’s Mourvèdre, this singular beauty needs a solid decant if drinking anytime soon and will have two decades or more of total longevity. (94 pts.) Copyright © 2013 The Rhone Report Jeb Dunnuck:  http://therhonereport.com/

Recent vintages summary for the region

“There’s no denying the region has had a string of superb vintages, and there are certainly high level traits that appear. A hot vintage, 2009 continues to impress and the wines taste better today than they did on release. Similarly styled to 2007, yet less concentrated, the wines have upfront, perfumed profiles, with notable, and sometimes dry, tannin. A step up and a fantastic vintage, 2010 as a whole had cooler weather which shows in the wines darker fruit profile, brighter acidity, and overall rich, yet pure mouth-feel…2011 was more erratic, yet is also superb and certainly a step up from 2008. The wines show softer, more supple, and approachable profiles than both ’09 and ’10.”

Copyright © 2013 The Rhone Report Jeb Dunnuck.

The Rhone Report is Jeb Dunnuck’s quarterly newsletter covering the wines and grapes of the Rhône Valley and elsewhere. The full report is extensive in both its coverage of regions and producers. Just even proofreading this issue must have been a large task.

For the full report click here:  http://therhonereport.com/

Terrasses du Larzac Decanter Regional Profile by James Lawther MW

This month’s Decanter Magazine contains a useful profile of the Terrasses du Larzac Appellation by James Lawther MW.

“The expression of Terrasses du Larzac varies subtly with each producer, but these are wines of substance, freshness and balance.”

Among its observations, the report offers a vintage guide – which, while could be taken with a pinch of salt (not literally) when it comes to some of the recent La Pèira bottlings – is overall a good guide:

Terrasses du Larzac: know your vintages

2011 Generally good but rain at harvest caused some variability according to zone. Earlier drinking.
2010 Superb. Best of the decade. Concentrated but balanced wines with good acidity. Has 10 to 15 years’ ageing potential.
2009 Rich, generous wines with less acidity than 2010. Appealing now.
2008 Fresh and classic in style. Less forward than 2009 but will offer some pleasant suprises over the longer term.
2007 Very good. Like 2010 but less concentration. Continues to give pleasure.
2006 More tannic year but beginning to soften. Drink over the next three years.

“Make no mistake about it, this is a very special wine made on a very special estate.”
Jancis Robinson

We were fortunate to have Jancis Robinson look at La Pèira’s limited production pure Mourvèdre: Matissat.

Describing it as a, “particularly fine Languedoc wine” the article looked a vertical of five vintages (2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, and 2011).

Recent tasting articles have included Oregon’s Evening Land,  Corney & Barrow’s vertical tasting of Pomerol’s Chateau Trotanoy, Manfred Krankl’s Sine Qua Non, and Alsace’s iconic Clos Ste Hune Riesling amongst others.

We were pleased to have these various vintages of this 100% Mourvèdre bottling – indeed Mourvèdre topped up with Mourvèdre over the 18-month élevage period, and grown on the Bois de Pauliau a few steps away from where it is vinified – looked in such a way.

This pure Mourvèdre – a cépage also known as Monastrell, and Mataro (see Jancis Robinson’s just released Wine Grapes for more information) – is available in very limited quantities, and we hope should not distract from the domaine’s La Pèira wines (for the latest superb reviews as of Oct 2012 click here).

Two of our favorite vintages in the Terrasses du Larzac over the last years in general have been the 2007 and 2009, and it was interesting to see these outstanding years perform slightly less well than the 2008 and 2011 – or for that matter the equally super 2010 vintage – in Jancis’ reviews. Hopefully these reviews (and others) might offer some insight into the character of each vintage over the 2007-2011 period.

PDF

All reviews including those the Wine Advocate’s, Andrew Jeffords, and Jancis Robinson’s – on vintages 2007-2011 are contained in this PDF (with some background regarding the wine and Jancis’ full article on La Pèira’s Matissat) here.

Jancis Robinson’s Matissat Reviews

(for the full article click links above)

“La Peira is considered by many to be the benchmark producer in the Languedoc. The 2009 ‘Las Flors de la Pèira’ is just one reason for earning this reputation.”

Las Flors de la Pèira is La Pèira’s second wine.  The International Wine Report’s review of the Las Flors de la Pèira 2009 is here. Other reviews of the La Pèira wines from the IWR can be found here.

Further reviews of the wines here: Press and Reviews.

“the hugely seductive Matissat from La Pèira in Terrasses du Larzac”

Writing for the FT (Financial Times) Andrew Jefford suggests, “Mourvèdre will, I believe, one day be seen as the grape variety of choice for the finest, warmest red wine sites in the south of France”.

The article paints a bleak picture for the future of Bandol: “The fact that Bandol, just west of Toulon, is one of Provence’s leading seaside resorts seems to have a corrupting effect on wine production there. The sad truth is that most of its wine…is rosé. Red wine production has sunk to just 30 per cent of the total”.

All of which may be, in part, due to the fact the wines have not been overwhelmingly embraced as fine wines in the same way as those of other European regions:  ”It is curious that the greatest wines of Bandol aren’t more widely acclaimed”.

The article is here: Greater Provence by Andrew Jefford

“La Pèira, one of the new superstars of Terrasses du Larzac”

From the Financial Times (I think the answer lies in the soil) to the Bangkok Post (A Great Newborn from the Larzac); from Bettane & Desseauve’s appreciation (Appellation of the Year 2011: “Un terroir , un vrai”) to the digital world of Technorati (The Best Appellation You’ve Never Heard of),  the Terrasses du Larzac has been looked at in print a few times.

Not to mention articles in Decanter and being designated as Primus inter pares in the Revue des Vins de France’s « Classement des Terroirs du Languedoc ».

This weekend saw John Wilson publish an article in the Irish Times worth reading and a good introduction. Link here: Hitting the high notes – The Irish Times

“Terrasses du Larzac, seems to be the name on everybody’s lips. Not only does it include two established superstars, Mas de Daumas Gassac and Grange des Pères (although neither of which use the term Terrasses du Larzac), this area also has the greatest concentration of both great and very promising estates in the Languedoc.”

The very limited amount of the La Pèira wines are available in Ireland through Gary Gubbins/RNW can be found here: Wine Searcher.

La Pèira’s Matissat tops Andrew Jefford’s Decanter Blind Tasting of “almost ninety of Languedoc’s finest red wines”

Writing for Decanter Magazine, Andrew Jefford reports on a blind tasting of, “almost ninety of the Languedoc’s finest wines”, where -  as he relates, “the winner was a new arrival: the 2009 Matissat from La Pèira”.

The tasting was organised by Christian Seely, Managing Director of AXA Millésimes (Owners of Château Pichon-Longueville, Chateau Suduiraut and Quinta do Noval among others and one of France’s most prestigious wine companies), and held last month at the company’s property in the Hérault, Mas Belles-Eaux.

Andrew Jefford, in his article for Decanter writes:

“…I blind-tasted, over a couple of days recently, almost ninety of Languedoc’s finest red wines.

The tasting finished with a flight of wines whose prices march boldly into  Bordeaux and Burgundy territory: €55 for La Grange des Pères 2007, €64 for La Pèira 2009, €82 for the 2007 Porte du Ciel from La Négly and €83 for the 2008 Clos des Truffiers, also from La Négly. It was, in taste as well as in price, a battle of the sauropods, but on my scoresheet as well as for those I  was tasting with, the winner was a new arrival: the 2009 Matissat from La Pèira (€40 from the cellar; Berry Bros, by the way, will be stocking both the 2007 and 2009 vintages later this year). 

It was pure Mourvèdre, but I don’t think Bandol-lovers would have recognized it, so pristine were its black fruits, and so elegantly had the garrigue allusions been incorporated. Yes, it had tiptoed right up to the tipping point, looked over — and stepped back:  delicious.”

AXA Millésimes,  the wine investment arm of the AXA insurance group, acquired Mas Belles-Eaux (situated between Pézenas and Caux, some 20 Kms. south-west of La Pèira) in 2002, stating:

“We believe that, in the future, the Languedoc will be recognised as the source of some of the greatest wines of France”.

As Christian Seely relates: “when I told Michel Chapoutier I’d bought the vineyard and where it was, he said it’s the greatest terroir in France!”

Château Pichon-Longueville part of the Axa portfolio with estates such as Chateau Suduiraut and Quinta do Noval

In last month’s Decanter, Michel Chapoutier, (who has also invested in the region) is on record saying:

“Languedoc-Roussillon will be viewed at the level of Bordeaux and the Rhône in 20 years’ time”.

Seely explained the rationale behind the tasting:

“This is something we like to do from time to time to see where we are in relation to others, and to get a good feeling of what is going on in the region. This was a particularly extensive tasting, as it is now nearly ten years since we have been at Belles-Eaux”.

Map: Hérault River – Aniane to Pezenas

Standout Wines 

While La Pèira’s Matissat is not widely available, standout wines from this tasting included wines such as Grande Cuvée Domaine de l’Hortus (Pic St Loup) 2009, Clos du Serres’ La Blaca 2009, Clos de la Simonette 2009 from Mas Champart (St Chinian), Chant des Cigales Ch la Liquière 2009 (St Chinian), Carline Ch de Cazeneuve 2010 (Pic St Loup), La Pèira 2009, La Grange des Pères 2007,  and, of course, the Ste Hélène Mas Belles Eaux 2010.

Christian Seely sums up on his blog:

“I was very encouraged by how well our wines showed at the big tasting, which was done blind, but also thrilled by how many great wines are being made in the Languedoc now.”

Hérault River and a few of her Domaines 

Lastly, in much the same way the Gironde is useful in understanding Bordeaux, or the Rhône river its eponymous growing region, a useful fixed point in exploring this wine region is the Hérault river, on whose banks to the right or the left (in this picture) can be found, not only La Pèira – or for that matter Belles-Eaux (both marked) , but such names as Grange des Peres, Daumas Gassac, Peyre Rose, La Negly‘s Clos des Truffiers, or the Prieuré de Saint Jean de Bébian, to mention but a few.

The image to to the right shows how (with a kayak and some hiking boots) you could make – not just the trip between the two – but visit many of the top domaines of the region in the process.

(click to the right>) 

Robert Parker on La Pèira

“My colleague David Schildknecht has written about this estate, which many observers consider to be the most exciting estate in the Languedoc.”

Hot on the heels of bottling, allocating, and shipping the La Pèira 2010s, Robert Parker published the first Wine Advocate review of the vintage, looking at the the domaine’s entry-level (3rd wine) Obriers de la Pèira.

Obriers de La Pèira 2010 Terrasses du Larzac 91 Points Robert Parker – Wine Advocate 

“My colleague David Schildknecht has written about this estate, which many observers consider to be the most exciting estate in the Languedoc…An intriguing blend of 65% Cinsault and 35% Carignan aged 18-24 months in wood foudres. This much Cinsault usually produces a light wine as well as magnificent roses, but this offering is surprisingly deep. The flowery component of this varietal, combined with deep raspberry and kirsch-like fruit, medium body and an elegant style give this wine a Burgundian sensuality and finesse. I do not believe this remarkable 2010 will age well given its varietal composition, but who really knows? Certainly it is brilliant now and should continue to drink well for 3-4 years.

Don’t miss it, especially if you love flowers, raspberries and finesse.”  Robert Parker – Wine Advocate (Issue #201 29th June 2012)

Wine Advocate Vintage Guide 

The year has seen, for the first time, the inclusion of the Languedoc-Roussillon in the Wine Advocate’s Vintage Guide (2011-1970).

2010 looks extraordinary.

2009/2010 Reviews – PDF

Regarding the 2010s: after reviewing the 2009 La Pèira as one of the top wines of the region for its vintage, David Schildknecht of the Wine Advocate observed, “The raw materials for the 2010 La Pèira were similarly – well, to clarify, actually quite distinctly sensational.” Jeb Dunnuck of The Rhone Report noted in this recent reviews: “While ’08 is rock solid here, the ’09s are every bit as good as the ’07s, and the 2010s look to be even better!”. To download the full reviews to-date of the 2009-2010 vintage please CLICK ON PDF IMAGE adjacent or here: La Peira 2009-2010 Reviews

La Pèira’s location near the Hameau de Sainte-Brigitte above Saint-André-de-Sangonis 

To leave off – a small image below showing the location of La Pèira in the central zone of the Terrasses du Larzac.

“Many observers in the Languedoc-Roussillon believe the vineyards/terroirs located in the sector…in and around the village of St.-Andre de Sangonis produce some of the finest wines of the region.”
Robert Parker – Issue # 117 – Wine Advocate – 1998

Map of La Pèira

La Pèira: The Rhone Report Reviews: 2008-2009-2010 Vintages

Last week  Jérémie Depierre (above) made the rather ambitious tour of Boston, Chicago, San Francisco (over five or so days with as many flights) as part of the annual European Cellars national portfolio tasting.
 This was brilliantly attended, with more than 500 tasters turning up in Boston alone.

This week it’s back to work in the vineyard with the planting of .4 HA (nearly an Acre) of Syrah – and all else.

And last night the March 2012 issue of The Rhone Report came out.

This issue focuses on the Languedoc-Roussillon, Southern France, the 2007 vintage in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Northern Rhône, and Spain. As such the La Pèira 2008, 2009, and 2010 vintages were looked at.

The Rhone Report’s look at our 2007 vintage is here: La Pèira and Gauby’s Muntada top the Languedoc-Roussillion (May 2011).

The Rhone Report: La Pèira notes
General 

“At the top end, the selection is much smaller, but the quality is on par with the top wines in the world. Both Château de la Négly and La Pèira produce singular, spectacular wines (while not reviewed here, I’d be remiss not include Domaine Gauby’s La Muntada in this list)”

One of the top estates in the Languedoc, and certainly in the crème de la crème of estates in the south of France, La Pèira en Damaisèla is owned by the well-known UK composer Robert Dougan, with the winemaking team consisting of Jérémie Depierre, with Claude Gros consulting. Producing full-bodied, powerful, and exceedingly rich wines, this estate is set apart by their ability to produce wines that not only show thrilling levels of fruit and texture, but also manage to hold onto a sense of purity, elegance, and balance. While ’08 is rock solid here, the ’09s are every bit as good as the ’07s, and the 2010s look to be even better! Website: lapeira.wordpress.com Importer: Eric Solomon Selections – European Cellars http://www.europeancellars.com

2010 La Pèira Terrasses du Larzac (France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Terrasses du Larzac)  $NA

Tasted as a final blend, the 2010 La Pèira Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac is set to be bottled in June of 2012. The same blend and elevage as the ‟09 (60/40 Syrah and Grenache aged in 60% new French oak), it has a more classic, structured, and mineral-driven profile with utterly captivating aromatics of crème de cassis and pit styled fruits that are intermixed with notions of roasted herbs, chocolate, crushed stone, and candied flowers that literally soar from the glass. Deep, layered, and yet still incredibly light and elegant on the palate, with spectacular purity of fruit, loads of richness, and fantastic freshness, this full-bodied beauty might just eclipse both the ‘07 and ‘09. Opening up with air (as with the other cuvees, I followed this bottle for multiple days) and showing more structure, this will most likely require 3-5 years of bottle age, and have upwards of two decades of longevity. (97-100 pts.)

2010 Las Flors de la Pèira Terrasses du Larzac (France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Terrasses du Larzac) $NA

As with the other 2010s from this estate, the 2010 La Pèira Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors, tasted as a barrel sample, shows a deeper, richer, and more black fruit driven profile than its ‘09 counterpart. A blend of 55% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, and 5% Cinsault aged in 25% new barrels, it possesses an inky color to go with sweet, perfumed notes of black cherry, pepper, sappy garrigue, black licorice, and mineral characteristics on the nose. Full-bodied and rich on the palate, with surprising elegance and silkiness to the texture, this improves with air, and while it will be approachable on release, it should have no issues evolving gracefully for upwards of a decade or longer. (93-96 pts.)

2010 Obriers de La Pèira  Terrasses du Larzac (France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Terrasses du Larzac) $NA

Tasted as a final blend, the not yet bottled 2010 Obriers de La Pèira is even more impressive than the ‟09. A blend of 65% Cinsault and 35% Carignan that’s aged all in wooded vats and older barrels, it yields a beautiful array of savory, mineral-laced aromas of black cherry, plum pit, wild herbs, lavender, and toasted walnut shell that carry into a medium to full-bodied Languedoc that has brilliant purity of fruit, a deep, layered mid-palate, and a building, lengthy finish that keeps you coming back for another sip. Even better on the second day, this elegantly styled, complex red should drink beautifully on release, yet age gracefully for 5-8 years. (91-93 pts.)

2009 La Pèira Terrasses du Larzac (France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Terrasses du Larzac) $120

More perfumed, floral, and sexy than the slightly brooding ‟08, the 2009 La Pèira Terrasses du Larzac – a blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache that‟s aged in 60% new French oak – boasts knockout aromas of sweet crème de cassis, raspberry ganache, crushed flowers, licorice, graphite, and sappy garrigue that flow to a full-bodied, perfectly balanced, and surprisingly elegant palate. Despite the overall size here, it’s far from over the top and possesses a deep, yet semi-opaque color to go with a creamy, energetic texture, beautiful purity of fruit, and polished tannin that emerges on the mid-palate and carries through the finish, framing the sweet fruit beautifully. Benefiting from a substantial decant, this is thrilling stuff that should have a long drink window (I followed this bottle for 4 days and it was never short of stunning); I would give bottles 2-3 years in the cellar, and then plan on drinking over the following two decades. (98 pts.) 

2009 Las Flors de la Pèira Terrasses du Larzac (France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Terrasses du Larzac)  $50

The 2009 Las Flors de la Pèira Terrasses du Larzac, a blend of 55% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, and 5% Cinsault, is stylistically closer to the grand vin than to the Les Obriers de La Pèira; it is certainly the  best vintage of this cuvee I’ve tasted to date.   Aged in 5% new barrels, it delivers a decidedly sexy, polished profile with creamy raspberry, currant, graphite, and floral aromas that flow to a full-bodied, plush, seamless Languedoc that is incredibly polished and rich.  Possessing no hard edges and a voluptuous profile, it fleshes out beautifully with air, and while it lacks the overall intensity of its big brother, there’s no denying the  similarities and this stands on its own as great wine. Given the overall purity and balance, this is delicious now, yet should have upwards of a decade or more of longevity.  (95 pts.)

2009 Obriers de La Pèira Terrasses du Larzac (France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Terrasses du Larzac) $20 

A blend of 65% Cinsault and 35% Carignan thats aged all in wooden vats and older barrels, the 2009 La Pèira Terrasses du Larzac Obriers de La Pèira is a supple, delicious red that possesses a savory, earthy profile of damp earth, leafy herbs, lavender, and assorted spices to go with a core of plum and pit fruits. Medium-bodied on the palate, with a seductive, rounded texture and plenty of length, this has loads of character, and should be consumed over the coming 3-5 years. As is common with this cuvee, it needs plenty of air to show at its best, so if drinking anytime soon, don’t be afraid to decant. (89 pts.) 

2008 La Pèira Terrasses du Larzac (France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Terrasses du Larzac)  $120

A step up, with slightly more intensity, precision, and detail than the Las Flors (which is stunning in its own right), the 2008 La Pèira Terrasses du Larzac is a blend of roughly 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache that’s aged in close to 60% new barrels. Layered, dense, and deeply fruited, yet with a surprisingly elegant, polished profile, this thrilling ‘08 boasts classic aromas of mineral-drenched black fruits, dark chocolate, charred rosemary, licorice, and iron that flow seamlessly to a full-bodied, perfectly balanced Languedoc. Possessing a full, concentrated mid-palate, stellar freshness, and a silky, structured finish, this elegant, yet powerful 2008 is quite possibly the wine of the vintage. It‟s certainly impressive now, yet I suspect it will be even better with 2-4 years of bottle age, and age effortlessly for 10-12 years at a minimum.  (95 pts.)

2008 Las Flors de la Pèira Terrasses du Larzac (France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Terrasses du Larzac)  $50

Almost Bordeaux like in its decadent, yet edgy and dense aromatic profile, the 2008 La Pèira Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac Las Flors is the estate‟s second wine (yet the equivalent of just about everyone else‟s top wine) and is a blend of close to half Grenache and the balance Syrah, with a touch of Mourvèdre in the blend as well. It exhibits first-rate aromas of smoked black currants, sappy herbs, licorice, roasted meats, and lilac aromas on the nose. Full-bodied on the palate and concentrated, without a hint of over-extraction or heaviness, it possesses a light, yet richly textured mouth feel, brilliant balance, and a classy, clean finish where the wine‟s class and polish shows. While deeply fruited and rich, it stays fresh, elegant, and weightless in the mouth, before turning grippy and structured on the finish. Gorgeous on all fronts, and much more approachable at this point than the grand vin, this impeccably put together beauty should be given 1-2 years of bottle age, and consumed over the following decade. (93 pts.) 

www.TheRhoneReport.com Issue 11, March 2012 28

Jeb Dunnuck’s  The Rhone Report newsletter (subscription- $5 monthly) is published quarterly and dedicated to the wines of the Rhone and Rhone wines worldwide.